November 30- December 16, 2019. The Atacama desert is the driest non-polar desert in the world. Some scientists estimate it hasn’t actually rained there in millions of years. It’s too dry for cactus to survive, except in the small areas that have some fog drip. Apparently NASA conducts studies here because it has an incredible, … Continue reading CHILE part 2: Return to Chile, the Atacama Desert, the stretching of time, space, and reality.
I usually don’t linger at border crossings. There’s often a bit of chaos and some shady characters around. However, this Chile-Bolivia crossing didn’t feel like that, and with company and a huge increase in food options, we were distracted for a while. Hunger struck something fierce and as I ordered a bowl of broth with … Continue reading A week in Bolivia
From the beaches of Arica, I debated endlessly whether I should ride or bus back up the 13,000 feet to the mountains in Putre. Our gravel route, Ruta de las Vicuñas, started in Putre, which would either be a 2.5 day all-uphill grind with dubious water sources, or a 2 hr bus ride. I read … Continue reading Chile part 1: Ruta de las Vicuñas. Route of my Dreams.
Cusco is a beautiful city that I have one solitary photo to show for it. After a few painful days in bed, Halloween came and went. As November began, my appetite slowly returned and I ventured out on the cobblestone streets of this historic but heavily tourist-influenced city. Before recovering, The first two nights I … Continue reading Peru Part 5: Adios, Peru. Hola, Chile.
After the bought of sickness in Chiuchin, I regained some energy and positive thinking and pedaled slowly uphill through a desert-like river valley until it took a steep pitch past Parquin to a climb that I’ve read “chews Up cyclists and spits them out”. I wasn’t looking forward to it in my sorry state but … Continue reading Peru part 4: In sickness and in… health
Tom left in the usual grey, sad, overcast Lima weather, his bike box in the back of a cab, me crying more than is appropriate. I had gotten used to having him with me for a month and for a brief time forgot that it was temporary. We danced in the kitchen, tears and the … Continue reading PERU PART 3: Then everything went to shit
Less than halfway through the country and I feel the pulse of the air around me, from the lowlands with humidity, higher population, palm trees, heat and sugar cane, to the constant honking horns in chaotic towns of any elevation. The mountains with reserved, sometimes isolated, kind people, alluvial rock layers exposed in through-cuts of … Continue reading PERU Part 2 #andTom